DESTINATION: ALBERTA
- by Bernard Burt
Looking for an alternative to Banff and Calgary?
Edmonton enjoys laid-back lifestyle and spas
Gateway to the Canadian Rockies.
Alberta's capital city has come into its own as a destination and gateway to the national parks that make western Canada a great escape. Easy to reach aboard Air Canada from Toronto or Vancouver, or VIA Rail, the Edmonton area blends history and culture with natural wonders.
Perched on a hillside, my view of Edmonton's dramatic skyline during the annual Folk Festival last August revealed a city that preserves its past while building for the future. Stroll the Arts District, past the handsome new Art Gallery of Alberta to City Hall, a striking glass pyramid, where kids frolic amid fountains and pools. Across town, the imposing legislature building is surrounded by parkland, accessible for history tours, lovely picnics. Best of all, downtown is alive with affordable housing in historic buildings that have been converted with lofts and condos. The urban vibe comes with young couples enjoying outdoor cafés, a constant series of arts festivals, and some of the best day spas in Canada.
Tucked into Commerce Place on Jasper Avenue downtown, The Boardroom introduced grooming for men. A haven for guys looking great, the inner sanctum has a lounge with sports coverage on TV, scalp massage, shoe shining, choice of beverage. Getting an appointment for massage in one of the five small treatment rooms required a bit of schedule adjustment, but the friendly receptionist added a haircut and hot towel shave to my morning visit. In the hands of stylists with long experience, the $88 package is real value.
Entrepreneur Ed Kilbride traveled to 10 cities across America and Europe before investing more than a million bucks to open The Boardroom. "What we found," he told the local press, "is men like privacy." The culture in changing, he said, and demand for skincare as well as Botox has made his day spa a haven for urban cowboys.
(www.boardroomspas.com)
Also on my list provided by the tourism team at Edmonton Economic Development Corp. were an award-winning salon called Carriel, detox specialist Dtox Natural Hair, Dolce Soleil, and Genesis Body Care. Located within the Optimum Health Store, Kolya Day Spa offers an array of treatments with all-natural products, featuring sustainable production methods from regional producers. Only time constraints kept me from visiting Peaches & Cream Spa in an elegant mansion overlooking Edmonton's scenic river valley.
With miles of scenic trails, it's no wonder "Running Room" shops started in Edmonton. Founded in 1984 by shoe specialist/marathoner John Stanton, there are now over 90 locations across North America. For an introduction to regional resources, the Edmonton Health & Wellness Show brigs together dozens of industry experts.
(www.edmotohealthandwellness.com)
Festival City
From fringe theater to classical music, Edmonton cultivates the arts for all ages. With a dash of northerly spirit and high-prairie openness, the city hugs the North Saskatchewan River. Iconic attractions like West Edmonton Mall and River Cree Casino Resort compete with heritage places in Old Strathcona and Fort Edmonton Park.
Perhaps the city's preservation efforts account for the popularity of folk music and theater. There's even a Laughter Club on the campus of the University of Alberta where professor Billy Strean relates better health to exercising the joy of laughter.
(www.laughteryoga.ca)
The Old Strathcona historic area, voted one of the top 10 coolest neighborhoods in Canada, is home to more than 100 eateries and pubs, bookstores and antiques shops. But its passion is live theater, and every August the streets are packed for a celebration of new playwrights at the Edmonton International Fringe Theater Festival. Meeting veteran festival-goer Ray Christenson at a foodie hangout called Packrat Louie, we attended a performance by fierce-footed tap dancers from Manhattan. The energy was infectious. "That's what makes Edmonton a great city to visit," said Ray.
(www.fringetheatreadvetures.ca)
An excellent base for exploring Edmonton, the Matrix Hotel is within walking distance of downtown attractions. Opened in 2007, the hotel's understated elegance and friendly service made my stay a welcome change from cookie-cutter accommodations. (www.matrixedmonton.com) Looking for cheap eats, I discovered Sobeys on Jasper Avenue in a former office building. Sobeys redefines urban food shopping and dining, with made-to-order meals and takeout. Riding the city's underground rail system and shuttle bus got me to the folk festival, which was mobbed and broiling under a bright sun (great opportunity to promote sunscreen). This three-day affair draws top talent from around the world, regularly sells out. (www.edmontonfolkfest.org)
On the Enoch Cree Nation reserve, the action at River Cree Casino complements a Marriott Hotel that offers complimentary access to indoor pool and fitness center. Located on the city's western fringe, the resort adds to the urban mix of entertainment, but left me yearning for a taste of real First Nations culture. That can be found at Blackfoot Recreation Area, renowned as winter home of Canada's largest cross-country ski festival. Another journey into Western Canada history is at the Royal Alberta Museum, where you explore Aboriginal culture as well as minerals, dinosaurs, and Mammoths.
Gateway to The Canadian Rockies
Jasper National Park, 192 miles/370 km west of Edmonton, has stunning scenery and hot springs but fewer tourist crowds than Banff. While the park is on Via Rail's transcontinental route, it's an easy drive from the city. My destination was Miette Hot Springs, high in a valley where the main attraction is soaking in mineral water. Parks Canada operates a modest bathhouse, rents towels and lockers. It was the best of both worlds.
(www.hotsprings.ca)
Boarding the VIA Rail superliner at Edmonton was timetripping. Never mind the train's delayed arrival and frequent stops. In a 1950-style sleeper cabin, steps from dining car, lounge topped by glass-roof seating, the overnight trip via Jasper to British Columbia is a great way to relive the golden days of train travel.
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